23–24 January 2027 · Veliky Novgorod
ЗИМНИЕ ВЫХОДНЫЕ ВЕЛОКРОССА · 3ВВ
Два дня ТИПАЦИКЛОКРОССА: Cyclocross, Gravel, Fixed gear, МТБ и беговой кросс. Один день или оба.
23–24 January 2027 · Veliky Novgorod
Два дня ТИПАЦИКЛОКРОССА: Cyclocross, Gravel, Fixed gear, МТБ и беговой кросс. Один день или оба.
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FATRACING PROThe workshop is on one page: how many links should be in your chain and how many to remove from the new one, whether the chain is alive according to the ruler and at what figure in millimeters it is time to change it, how many more kilometers it will endure in your dirt.
How to measure wear and check chain length
The recalculation goes by itself, there are no buttons. The link to the page saves your numbers — you can throw the mechanics into the chat instead of long explanations.
The formula: 2 × (425 / 25.4) + (40 + 52) / 4 + 1 = 57.46", this is 114.93 links of 12.7 mm, rounded to an even number — 114.
Practical method: girth over the big star and the big star of the cassette past the switch — 1436mm, these are 113.1links; plus two links - 116. The difference with the formula +2link.
The nominal value of 12 links is 304.8 mm (measured from the center of the pin to the center of the pin). For 12sk, the threshold is 0.50%, that is, 306.32 mm: put a ruler and look at this figure. Above 1%, the cassette is almost certainly gone — then change the kit.
The conditions "Variable: dust and rain" give 2000-3000 km, the care "Sometimes I remember" moves the estimate to 0% — it turns out 2000-3000 km, in the calculation we take the middle: 2500 km. It makes sense to measure wear every 500 km. The figures are indicative: the ruler is more honest than any run, because the chain does not kill mileage, but sand and water.
Chain length — the classic formula L = 2 × (chainstays in inches) + (teeth of the large chainring + teeth of the large cassette sprocket) / 4 + 1. The result in inches is converted to links: one inch of chain is two links of 12.7 mm. The chain can only be installed with an even number of links, so round up to an even number.
Practical method — put the chain on the largest chainring in front and the largest cassette sprocket, bypassing the rear derailleur, bring the ends together and add two links. For 1x — the same, but then be sure to check that the derailleur frame does not straighten into a line on the smallest cassette sprocket: this is a sure way to break the derailleur on the first bump.
Derailleur check — both the formula and the measurement give only a starting point. The correct length is confirmed by the derailleur: on the largest-largest the frame should not straighten, on the smallest-smallest the chain should not hang in a loop. Long frames and mullet builds regularly underestimate the length by a couple of links.
Wear — we consider the elongation as (measured − nominal value) / nominal value × 100. The nominal value of 12 links is 12 × 25.4 = 304.8 mm, 24 links are 609.6 mm; measured from the center of the pin to the center of the pin by pulling the chain. Threshold: 0.5% for 11 and 12 speeds, 0.75% for 9-10, 1.0% for 8 and less. Above 1% — the cassette is almost certainly gone, to change the kit.
Threshold in millimetres — reverse calculation: the same length at which it is time to change the chain. For 12 speeds on 12 links, this is 306.32 mm. Remember the figure, attach a ruler — and do not count the percentages in your mind on the sidelines.
Resource — reference point: 3000-5000 km in dry and clean, 2000-3000 in variable weather, 1000-1500 in mud and sand, 700-1200 in winter with reagents. Regular washing with grease adds up to 30%, complete indifference takes the same amount.
All figures on the resource are indicative: the ruler is more honest than any run. The chain does not kill mileage, but sand and water — one trip on wet gravel can eat more than a month of dry asphalt.
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